I recently moved to NW Portland, and my trusty Weber gas grill now resides on the back deck of my flat, right off the kitchen. I can already tell that it’s going to get a lot of use. First, there’s the sheer proximity to the kitchen proper, making a quick dash outside to check cooking status a very easy trip indeed. Second, my flatmate John is a professional cook. When he’s not turning out upscale border food for NW denizens, he is exploring his passion for Croatian cuisine. To inaugurate the Weber, he suggested a meal of Anchovies - not the heavily brined and oiled variety that are prepared with a can opener, but the fresh kind. They require more preparation, of course (starting with a careful gutting) but they are well worth the effort. Also, they are apparently a relatively unpopular choice down at the fish market, a fact reflected in the price. While “premium” choices like Ahi steaks and Coho fillets are currently fetching $20 or more per pound, a similar amount of fresh Anchovies can be had for $3.

To gut this delicate fish, a razor blade works well. Following a liberal seasoning with salt, pepper, rosemary and raw garlic, grill the Anchovies over low heat. Release the fish carefully from the grill with a fork when it’s time to flip. If you’re cooking in the Dalmation style, one of the rules of thumb is that there’s rarely such a thing as too much garlic. A sprinkling of fresh chopped garlic after plating kicked the fragrance and flavor into high gear.

This is definitely a fish best eaten with hands. It’s also a fish where you can decide how much of it you want to enjoy - not in terms of overall quantity, but in terms of anatomy. There’s lots of flavor in the head, for instance. Or if that’s not your style, pull off the head and then separate the fillets from the backbone with a gentle squeeze of the body and remove the backbone.

Enjoy with a pasta salad as shown here, or pair with your own favorite Mediterranean-style side dish. I found this to be a very energizing meal - the Omega 3 fatty acids and the garlic definitely contributed to my post-meal euphoria. Next time you’re looking for a fish to put on the grill, consider the Anchovy - small in size but big in character. And for now, very reasonably priced.